A review of some watches at the SIAR Europe 2016 Part II

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By: Erwan Grey Photographer

Now the meeting are with Vacheron Constantine, Cartier, and Jaeger-LeCoultre watches.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

The Grand Oeuvre (Reference 57260)

On 17th September of 2015 at a press event at its manufacture and headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates on the outskirts of Geneva, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the most complicated watch ever made. The double-dial portable mechanical timepiece has a total of 57 complications, by Vacheron’s count. Several of the complications are world firsts. (All 57 complications are listed at the end of this story.)

The watch, which Vacheron Constantin calls the Grand Oeuvre (Reference 57260), was manufactured by a team of three master watchmakers and took eight years to complete. It was commissioned by a prominent watch collector and created to mark this year’s 260th anniversary of the founding of the company in Geneva.

The watch (whose dimensions are 98-mm in diameter and 50.55 mm thick) boasts 960 grams of white gold in its case and is loaded with notable technical features. It displays three different perpetual calendar systems: a Gregorian perpetual calendar, a Hebraic perpetual calendar, and the ISO 8601 business calendar. The user is able to switch from the Gregorian to the ISO business calendar. It has a three-column-wheel 12-hour chronograph, three-axis armillary tourbillon, a 12-hour second-time-zone indicator with day and night indications, and a world timer with 24 time zones.

It has an astronomical calendar with indications for seasons, equinoxes, solstices, and zodiac signs. Plus a sky chart, sidereal time in hours and minutes, equation of time, hours of sunrise and sunset, and length of day and night.

It has a moon-phase and moon-age indicator. It has six alarm functions and Westminster carillon striking including a minute repeater. And much more. (The movement, incidentally, is 71 mm in diameter and 36 mm thick and comprises an astonishing 2,800 components.)

For first time I see in real this amazing piece (not the original) at the SIAR Europe, because only have ONE and is at the house of the anonimous owner, but the brand have one replica and one stock of parts for replace in case are necessary.

Front view

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Back view

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THE COMPLICATIONS

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1. Hours, minutes, seconds, average solar time (regulator)
2. Three-shaft tourbillon
3. Tourbillon regulator with spherical balance spring
4. 12-hour time zone, second hours and minutes time zone
5. 24-city display for each time zone
6. Day/night indication for 12-hour time zone
7. Gregorian perpetual calendar
8. Gregorian day name
9. Gregorian month name
10. Gregorian retrograde date
11. Leap year and four-year cycle display
12. Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar)
13. Week to view (ISO 8601 calendar)
14. Hebrew perpetual calendar and 19-year cycle
15. Hebrew day number
16. Hebrew month name
17. Hebrew date
18. Hebrew secular calendar
19. Hebrew century, decade and year
20. Age of Hebrew year (12 or 13 months)
21. Golden number (19 years)
22. Seasons, equinoxes, solstices and signs of the Zodiac indicated by the hand on the sun
23. Star chart (for the owner’s city)
24. Sidereal time hours
25. Sidereal time minutes
26. Equation of time
27. Sunrise times (for the owner’s city)
28. Sunset times (for the owner’s city)
29. Length of day (for the owner’s city)
30. Length of night (for the owner’s city)
31. Moon phases and age (one correction every 1,027 years)
32. Date of Yom Kippur
33. Retrograde seconds chronograph (one column wheel)
34. Retrograde split-seconds chronograph (one column wheel)
35. Hours counter (one column wheel)
36. Minutes counter
37. Alarm with its own gong and gradual striking
38. Alarm strike / silence indicator
39. Choice of normal alarm or carillon striking alarm indicator
40. Alarm mechanism coupled to the carillon striking mechanism
41. Alarm striking with choice of grande or petite sonnerie
42. Alarm power-reserve indication
43. System to disengage the striking mechanism when alarm barrel fully unwound
44. Westminster carillon chiming with 5 gongs and 5 hammers
45. Grande sonnerie passing strike
46. Petite sonnerie passing strike
47. Minute repeating
48. Night silence feature (10 p.m. to 8 a.m.)
49. System to disengage the striking barrel when fully wound
50. Indication for grande or petite sonnerie modes
51. Indication for silence / striking / night modes
52. Movement power reserve indicator
53. Power-reserve indication for the striking train
54. Winding crown position indicator
55. Dual barrel winding system
56. Time setting in two positions and two directions
57. Secret mechanism (opening of the button for alarm arbor)

See this watch live is a whole experience… big, handsome, with a feeling that weighs a lot (it was in a glass case and it was impossible to touch it), ultimatelyI think with the novelty of the Panerai what scienziato it was just otherwise in weight (this watch does not reach even 50Grs) were the highlight of the SIAR Europe in my opinion.

After see this beauty, the company, showed us under the microscope the manufacture of other models.

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

CARTIER

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

Reverso Watch

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

© Erwan Grey All Rights Reserved

British India, 1931. A group of British army officers challenged Jacques-David LeCoultre to design a watch able to withstand their games of polo, the country’s most prestigious sport.

It was this challenge that led to the creation of the Reverso watch. Its dial flips over and is thus concealed against the wearer’s wrist, allowing the watch to withstand all blows while losing nothing of its elegance. A watchmaking icon was born.

The Art Deco style was inspired by a dream of a grand ideal, and the desire to offer the world a new aesthetic and new values. It sought a new balance, a symbiosis between form and function. With its elegant, rectangular lines and clear-cut gadroons, the case of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch takes its inspiration from these same ideals.

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